Illinois proves vineyard success

By Aaron Geiger

Illinois’ central heartland is making a statement after decades of corn and soybean tradition in the form of grapes and vineyards. A new series of vineyards, some award winning, has sprung up in a speed not usually matched by Napa Valley’s industrial-sized farms. Their approach, however, is more indicative of Midwestern farming hospitality and companionship than the fierce competition that California and Northwest growers are used to.

In a true farming-style culture, where hard work and neighborly amity combine to keep one another afloat in a difficult business, the vineyards of central Illinois have formed a cooperation similar in nature. Paul Hahn, the owner of Mackinaw Valley Vineyards, gave an example.

“(We) swap expensive pieces of equipment, like presses,” Hahn said. “We don’t consider ourselves competitors. In fact, we consider ourselves a brotherhood.”

The cooperation is helping to open a touring circuit, where aficionados and tourists are able to visit a number of vineyards, which brings out-of-state people to an area they most likely wouldn’t visit. While Missouri’s wineries are more established, Illinois’ vintners are the rookies to the game, and many, including Hahn, have been successful.

Illinois has long been conducive to wine growing; the trade was brought by French traders in the 1700s and passed down to other colonists and nationalities. However, Prohibition put an end to the sliding trade and the fertile soil was quickly put to use in the form of the crops we see today. Ventures in grape growing were not successful in the era of WWII, because of an herbicide used on local crops that affected the Ph-balance of the grapes to be of any quality use.

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Now that the particular herbicide is no longer used, there are more and more entrepreneurs, which can be quite risky in a trendy business. Californian wine-taster Scott Matsui was astonished to learn that Illinois had vineyards.

“Someone had told me about Missouri’s table wines, but I never would have thought that Illinois would produce wines of quality, much less those that are award-winning,” Matsui said.

Mackinaw Valley Vineyard started merely as a grape-growing business in 2001, and Hahn made 250 gallons of Seyval. By 2002, he had increased production to six different types of wines totaling 3500 gallons, all of which medalled that same year. Hahn’s vineyard also won Best Vineyard (Illinois). Alexander’s Conquest, a red, low-tannin wine, won the Best in Show Award, and bottles from 2002 now sell for $50. “I get a lot of restaurants calling me now, trying to buy out my stock, but I’m holding on to it, or at least limiting them (to patrons),” Hahn said.

Hahn has his children helping him out and he has rewarded them with wine labels for their namesakes, such as Eric’s Red, a fine red table wine made in a Cabernet fashion. Dark chocolate is offered to finish the palate after sipping this particular stock. There is Nicole’s Blush, labeled as a nice, citrus patio wine. Alexander’s Conquest dashes the mouth with clove and cinnamon. The Seyval offers a heavy aroma, but finishes slightly dry and acidic and should tempt those who enjoy snappy finishes. Also featured is the Cayuga White, which is named after the Cayuga Indians. The Cayuga White is labeled as ‘one of the hardiest grapes ever grown.’ Hahn recommends the wine be poured over fruit compote and frozen for a summer ‘slushy’ treat, as it is their sweetest dessert wine.

The interesting note is the variety of wines being experimented with and with positive success. The wines featured (even many not noted) cover the seasons and foods, from summer and fruit, to winter and a hearty Italian meal. In France, the soil composition and fertility ranges greatly, which has led to centuries of finding the proper grape for the land. Central Illinois has the opportunity to experiment greatly, which can be a fun experience in terms of uncharted tasting for those that like to tread into new areas.

Although it’s winter, Hahn has created an atmosphere that serves patrons year-round, bringing live music to a personal tasting-room setting. Last week, a local folklore and Irish/Celtic singer and musician Barry Cloyd played in the tasting room, providing entertainment in the evening. Cloyd is part of a winter music series that Hahn is offering to keep the business attractive and intriguing in spite of the cold nights in Illinois. Napa Valley tends to have outside venues year-round, so the Illinois winery tour can be quite a different, yet pleasant, experience.

“(Hahn) is creating a new environment out here. It’s intimate and I really enjoy playing here,” Cloyd said.

Mackinaw Valley Vineyard is only one of many new winery attractions that have appeared very recently, each sporting their own niches. They provide a variety of services, such as weddings and wedding parties, business meetings and weekend music, and are helping to resurrect an old tradition that has been with Illinois for almost 300 years.