Fresh pizza flown from miles away

NOME, Alaska – Last Christmas, residents of the Yupik Eskimo village of Savoonga added a special dish to their everyday fare of whale, walrus, reindeer and berries – fresh pizza flown in from Nome, 170 miles away.

A tiny delivery joint, Airport Pizza, had opened several months earlier just steps from Nome’s busy runways, and many of Savoonga’s 700 residents were eager to try more than conventional pepperoni and plain cheese.

Nome’s first and only pizza delivery service does a robust business in the western Alaska town of 3,500. But it really stands out for its free deliveries via commuter plane to more than a dozen other remote subarctic villages spread over a region about the size of Washington state.

The village council in Savoonga, on St. Lawrence Island in the icy Bering Sea, wanted a special holiday treat for young families in the village. It ordered 50 pizzas, half topped with chicken and ranch dressing and the other half with Canadian bacon and pineapple.

Julia Noongwook, 41, swapped some of her bacon and pineapple for a slice of chicken ranch from a relative. Noongwook said it was the first time she had tasted the popular chicken ranch pie, which also comes with bacon, red onions, tomatoes and mozzarella and cheddar cheeses.

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Frontier Flying Service, an intrastate airline, volunteered last year to fly the pizzas at no charge to every village on its regular flight schedule out of Nome, a Bering Sea town settled in 1899 during a massive gold rush.

Craig Kenmonth, general manager of Frontier, said the free delivery service helps the carrier market itself in a way that benefits customers in the largely Yupik and Inupiat Eskimo villages.

“Our success is directly tied to the success of the communities we serve,” Kenmonth said. “And it’s a fun thing to do.”

Delivery of three or four pizzas would normally cost a village about $25, said Matt Tomter, who manages Airport Pizza. Tomter’s wife, Jeri Ann, owns the business. Freight is charged 40 to 60 cents per pound, depending on the village’s distance from Nome, with a $10 minimum.

“They fly the pizzas for nothing, which is huge for people out in the villages,” said Tomter, who quit his job as a pilot at Frontier to run the thriving pizza joint.

The Christmas pizza order cost Savoonga anyway after a snowstorm grounded Frontier, said Noongwook, who handled the order as the city’s gaming manager.

Only 25 of the pizzas made it out on Frontier before the weather closed in. The council wanted to make sure no one felt left out by getting late pizzas on the holiday, so it paid freight charges of almost $100 to have another airline fly them in when the weather cleared later in the day.

The Savoonga order was one of Airport Pizza’s largest, but it isn’t rare to get calls for bundles of 10 or 20 pizzas from villages nearly 200 miles away. Tomter said an order for six reindeer sausage pizzas once came in from the Arctic Ocean town of Barrow, the northernmost community in the U.S., 500 miles to the northeast.

“Anytime they bring a lot of people into the village it’s an easy way to feed everybody,” Tomter said. Most big orders have come from Native organizations or schools hosting regional basketball tournaments.

High shipping costs into Nome already push Airport Pizza’s prices above those charged by pizzerias in less remote spots. They range from $16 for a 15-inch cheese pizza to $32 for a 19-inch specialty pie, such as chicken Rockefeller or gyro.

Meat-lovers, pepperoni, bacon-pineapple and chicken-ranch are among the most popular flavors, said Jeri Ann Tomter, who is Inupiat.

The pizzas are assembled and baked in a former airport terminal where the Tomters first laid eyes on each other. Jeri Ann was a customer service agent and Matt was a pilot for Cape Smythe Air Service, which Frontier bought in August.

The one-room business is all kitchen, with a 2,500-pound dough mixer salvaged from a bakery that went out of business, and a cavernous hand-me-down oven from a pizzeria turned Chinese restaurant.

Five staffers show up each day to make more than 30 types of pizzas, including Polynesian barbeque chicken, Mexican enchilada, and Mediterranean.

“We tried pizzas from all over, in Washington and Anchorage, and found some we liked, and made some up ourselves,” Tomter said.

After wrapping the pizzas in foil and securing the boxes with tape, an employee carries them about 80 feet to Frontier’s terminal.

The Tomters wouldn’t disclose numbers, but said Airport Pizza has been profitable since it opened in August.

“We’re not going away,” Matt Tomter said. “I think we’re just going to keep growing.”

He can count on more orders from Savoonga.

“I was thinking of doing it for Mother’s Day refreshments,” Noongwook said. “I’ll probably look through the menu and try to taste different flavors.”